Destination Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is a city reborn. It was cut off from the world and subjected to sustained attack during the Yugoslav wars of the early 1990s. Many buildings in the Old Town were damaged (though those thick walls stood firm), the infrastructure of the city as a whole was the destroyed, and the beautiful Dalmatian coastline disappeared from the tourist map. Now, every inch of the walled city has been restored, and Dubrovnik is once again a chic destination and a celebrity magnet.


It deserves to be better known. Among the best of the Dalmatian reds is Dingač, which comes in several varieties; if you prefer white look for a label that says Pošip.


The island is a 10-minute ferry ride away. Richard the Lionheart is said to have been shipwrecked here on his way back from the Crusades. There are worse places to wash up: it is quiet and peaceful, overrun by peacocks, and at one end of the island is a pretty saltwater pool known as Mrtvo More, the Dead Sea.


Miramare Bay has a secluded shingle beach reached via the very swish Hotel Bellevue (see Where to Stay). Watch the fearless boys leaping from the cliff, then have a bite to eat in the hotel’s restaurant. Lapad beach, on the far side of town, is more local and authentic – all pebbles and cheap eats, like a Balkan slice of Brighton.